泰国缅甸边境实况

文劳威从三塔通道的一封来信
A Letter from Three Pagodas Pass
By LAWI WENG Saturday, January 29, 2011

THREE PAGODAS PASS—From the relative comfort of Sangkhalaburi in Thailand, it took just 45 minutes by motorbike to reach the Burmese border.

As we got off our bikes to push them toward the Thai checkpoint—something the Burmese authorities have always insisted on, but which the Thais have just adopted—my heart was beating hard. I knew that journalists were not allowed near this border crossing and if the Burmese army caught me I would be looking at a long spell in prison.

We did get through though, with a minimum of fuss. Immediately on the Burmese side, the tarmacked road stops and a rocky trail begins. We bumped along on our bikes so badly that, later, I would need to take paracetamol for the headache and the pain I inflicted on myself.

Thu Rain, a resident in Thee Pagodas Pass, told me: “Over the past 20 years, if each army officer who had a tour of duty in this town laid one square foot of cement, then every road in Thee Pagodas would be sealed by now.”

Burmese government forces seized Three Pagodas Pass from the New Mon State Party (NMSP) some 21 years ago. Legend has it that a local Thai businessmen accepted a bribe to smuggle Burmese soldiers inside his trucks across the border to Thailand from where they launched a successful attack from the rear and defeated the bewildered NMSP army.

Despite the fact that fighting could erupt at any time between the various factions in the area, the town was quiet and everyone looked somewhat lazy. I saw uniformed soldiers from the NMSP and even the renegade Brigade 5 of the Democratic Karen Buddhist Army (DKBA) strolling down the street.

My friend told me that they had been banned from Three Pagodas Pass after their leaders rejected the military junta's border guard force (BGF) proposal, but no one batted an eyelid that they were walking around.

Although I did not see any, I was told that foreign tourists are welcome to visit the town for just US $10 a head. Thais only have to pay 50 baht ($1.50). Three Pagodas is currently home to about 70,000 people who mostly enjoy 24-hour electricity, courtesy of the fact that they are on the Thai national grid.

I met up with some members of the NMSP that I had known for a long time. We sat at a tea house and chatted. Very soon, two DKBA members came over and asked my friend whether I was a motorbike dealer, in which case they would demand taxes from me. My friend convinced them that I was just a friend and they left us alone.

An NMSP insignia was still nailed to a plaque above the door of their office even though it remained closed. Elsewhere, a handful of NMSP and DKBA flags could still be seen.

Several homes and shops were closed. On Nov. 8 last year, hundreds of townsfolk had to flee to the Thai side of the border when the DKBA launched an attack on the Burmese army post in the town.

I found that the men and women in Three Pagodas mostly wear traditional Burmese longyis as they walk around town. Several women wear 'thanaka' make-up on their faces. In many ways, it reminds me of my hometown, Mudon, or any other Mon township.

There was a distinct lack of Karaoke music, and very few restaurants. The local economy seemed depressed.

A local woman told me that a consequence of the DKBA attack on Nov. 8 is that the Karen National Union has banned all vehicles from driving between Thanbyuzayat and Three Pagodas Pass, slowing down not just traffic, but trade.

“Usually, I can make 400 baht a day selling fruit,” said vendor Nai Kalar. “Now, it's not worth being open.”

Without transport coming in or going out, most businesses cannot operate. Nai Kalar told me that many people want to sell their properties and move away.

Locals all agree that during the cease-fire, there was trade and a strong economy in the town. But since fighting resumed, everything has slowed down to a standstill.
A man of about 70 tells me that he owns a rubber plantation that he desperately wants to sell.

Akyi, a shopkeeper, overhears this and comes over quickly. She says she too wants to sell her house and its small rubber plantation.

“Take my house and garden! Take all the rubber trees! only100,000 baht ($3,000) for the lot. I won't even bargain,” she exclaims, and adds that as soon as she sells it, she and her family are going to move to Suratthani in the south of Thailand.

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