在这个电影片断中，Miranda和Nigel都提到了几位当代伟大的时装设计师。下面就让我们一起来认识一下他们。

Oscar de la Renta (1932-)


Dominican-born U.S. fashion designer. After studies in Santo Domingo and Madrid, he became staff designer for Cristobal Balenciaga in Madrid. He moved to New York City in 1962 and started his own company to produce women's ready-to-wear fashions. In 1973 he founded Oscar de la Renta Couture and expanded into household linens, menswear, and perfumes. In the 1970s he introduced the ethnic look with "Gypsy" and Russian themes; more recently he has produced romantic evening clothes in taffeta, chiffon, velvet, brocade, and fur. From 1993 to 2002 he designed couture for the house of Pierre Balmain.
Yves Saint Laurent (1936-)


French fashion designer, born in Algeria as Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. He established houses of couture and boutiques in Paris and New York. He was the foremost assistant to Christian Dior and became his successor as head of the House of Dior at the age of 21. His early collections were noted for their extreme, maverick quality. He opened his own Paris house in 1961, featuring the "chic beatnik" look; knitted turtlenecks; thigh-length boots; and short jackets. He revolutionized the fashion world by creating trousers and broad-shouldered suits that were images of power for women. His later designs include sophisticated tweed suits, the Mondrian dress, pleated skirts, updated peasant costumes, tuxedos for women, and heavy costume jewelry. His focus on an androgynous look was extremely influential in the fashion of the 1970s. He also designed for the Ballets de Roland Petit. By the mid-1970s, at the height of his success, his design empire included sweaters, neckties, eyeglass cases, linens, children's clothes, and fragrances. Gucci acquired his ready-to-wear and cosmetics divisions in 2000. Saint Laurent announced his retirement in 2002.

Halston (1932-90)


American fashion designer, b. Des Moines, Iowa as Roy Halston Frowick; attended Indiana Univ. and the Art Institute of Chicago. In 1958 he moved to New York City, designing hats for Dilly Daché and later (1959-68) millinery and clothing for the fashionable Bergdorf Goodman department store. There he created several distinctive styles, most notably the pillbox hat for Jacqueline Kennedy. Opening his own salon in 1968, Halston became one of the most acclaimed designers of the 1970s, a favorite of movie stars, art-world denizens, and the general public, and a disco-era celebrity in his own right. His designs were classically simple, elegant, and chic. He introduced Ultrasuede, popularized the cashmere twinset, caftan, halter dress, shirtwaist, spiral skirt, and knee-length pants, and added perfumes and luggage to his label. He also designed costumes for the Martha Graham Ballet, Dance Theatre of Harlem, and various stage and film productions.

Karl Lagerfeld (1938-)


(Karl Otto Lagerfeld), German fashion designer. He won a fashion award at 16, designed for couturiers Pierre Balmain (1954-58) and Jean Patou (1958-63), then freelanced for Fendi, Krizia, and Valentino and designed for Chloé (1959-78; 1992-97). In 1982 he was appointed head designer at Chanel, where he revamped the classic Chanel suit into chic updated versions, using offbeat colors and such materials as denim and leather; reinvented the double C logo; accessorized with heaps of gold chain and pearls; and added such items as mini- and maxiskirts, hot pants, and lace-up biker boots to the house repertoire. The pony-tailed, sunglassed, fan-carrying Lagerfeld also has his own KL label (launched in 1984). His lines include neckties, shoes, perfumes, sunglasses, jewelry, and housewares. He is a skilled photographer as well, with several published volumes.
Christian Lacroix (1951-)


French fashion designer, born in Arles, France. He studied art history at Paul Valéry University, Montpellier, and museum studies at the Sorbonne, Paris, 1973-76.

Career: Freelance fashion sketcher, 1976-78; assistant at Hermés, Paris, 1978-80; assistant to Guy Paulin, 1980; designer/artistic director, Jean Patou, 1981-87; opened own couture and ready-to-wear house, 1987; established Christian Lacroix haute couture and salons in Paris, 1987; developed cruise collection, 1988; designed ready-to-wear collection for Genny SpA, 1988, followed by menswear collection and boutique; introduced seven accessory lines, from 1989; line of ties and hosiery, 1992; launched C'est la Vie! perfume, 1990; designed costumes for American Ballet Theater's Gaieté Parisienne, New York, 1988; "Bazar" collection, 1994; launched Jeans Lacroix, 1994; introduced Christian Lacroix collection of fine china, 1997; created jewelry line, 2000; debuted "Enfants de Christian Lacroix," children's line, 2001.

Awards: Dé d'Or award, 1986, 1988; Council of Fashion Designers of America award, 1987; Moliére award (for costumes for Phedre), 1995.
Christian Dior


Christian Dior (1905-1957) was a fashion designer who changed the look of women's clothing and gave the post-World War II French fashion industry a new feminine look.

Christian Dior, son of a wealthy Norman manufacturer of chemicals and fertilizer, wanted to be an architect, but his family insisted he enter the diplomatic service. He prepared for a diplomatic career at the Ecole des Sciences Politiques but abandoned diplomacy in 1928 and became an art dealer. Illness forced him to give up that business in 1934, and when he returned to Paris a year later, it was as a fashion illustrator - first of hats, later of dresses.

"The New Look"

In 1946, when World War II cloth rationing was lifted, Dior opened his own salon. In the spring of 1947 the success of his first collection, called the "New Look," propelled him to the top of the French fashion industry. His idealized, ultrafeminine silhouette featured tiny waists; long, full skirts; padded busts; and rounded shoulders. Everything was made exquisitely of the best materials available. The New Look changed the shape of women's clothing and lifted the French fashion industry out of the doldrums. For this feat a grateful French government awarded him the Legion of Honor.

Subsequent Designs

His successive collections (including the "H-Line" in 1954 and the "A-Line" in 1955) continued to be popular, and throughout the 1950s the fashion world looked to Paris and Dior for inspiration and style. He expanded his company into eight firms and sixteen associate firms in twenty-four countries, reportedly grossing some million a year. His Dior label went on jewelry, scarves, men's ties, furs, stockings, gloves, and ready-to-wear clothing.

After his death the House of Dior continued under other designers, including his protégé Yves St. Laurent until 1960, then Marc Bohan.

John Rocha


John Rocha (born 23 August 1953, Hong Kong) is an Irish fashion designer of Chinese and Portuguese descent. He moved to Ireland after he graduated from the Croydon School of Art, London.

Know for his hand-crafting, beading and apliquée to garments, Rocha first established a name for with his Chinatown label in Dublin in the 1980s. In 1993 he was named British Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards.

He currently runs his own "John Rocha", "John Rocha Jeans", "Rocha John Rocha" and "John Rocha Jewellery" labels alongside a diffusion clothing, homewear and accessories label for Debenhams. Rocha also designed the interior of the Morrison Hotel in Dublin.
时尚大师 Jean-Paul Gaultier


该怎么形容Jean Paul Gaultier 的风格？顽皮、趣味、狂放不羁，都有一些但似乎不够贴切，最多人用来形容他的还是“恐怖”。

“Enfants-Terribles”（恐怖之子），时尚界的人这么称呼着Jean Paul Gaultier 。

Jean-Paul Gaultier (born April 24 1952, in Arcueil, Val-de-Marne) is a French fashion designer and past television presenter.

Gaultier never received formal training as a designer. Instead, he started sending sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his talent and hired him as an assistant in 1970.

His first individual collection was released in 1976 and his characteristic irreverent style dates from 1981, and he has long been known as the enfant terrible (bad boy) of French fashion. Many of Gaultier's following collections have been based on street wear, focusing on popular culture, whereas others, particularly his Haute Couture collections, are very formal yet at the same time unusual and playful. Jean-Paul Gaultier produced sculptured costumes for Madonna during the nineties and has also worked in close collboration with Wolford Hosiery. He promoted the use of skirts, especially kilts on men's wardrobe, and the release of designer collections. Gaultier caused shock by using unconventional models for his exhibitions, like older men and full-figured women, pierced and heavily tattooed models, and by playing with traditional gender roles in the shows. This granted him both criticism and enormous popularity.

Gaultier also designed the wardrobe of many motion pictures, including Luc Besson's The Fifth Element, Pedro Almodóvar's Kika, Peter Greenaway's The Cook, the Thief, His Wife &Her Lover, and Jean-Pierre Jeunet's La Cité des enfants perdus (The City of Lost Children). Madonna's Blond Ambition Tour (including the iconic cone bra) also featured his creations. He currently designs for three collections: his own couture and ready-to-wear lines, as well as the newly relaunched clothing line for Hermès, a French leather goods company well-known for their equestrian background, scarves, and expensive and difficult to obtain handbags. Most recently, Jean-Paul Gaultier designed Madonna's wardrobe for her 2006 Confessions Tour, continuing their long-standing relationship.

Jean Paul Gaultier's bread exhibit, Paris, 2004.
Gaultier has also designed a number of the costumes and outfits worn by rocker Marilyn Manson,[1] including the outfits for Manson's Golden Age of Grotesque album.[2] He's also well-known for his exhibit in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art known as Bravehearts - Men in Skirts.

Jean-Paul Gaultier is also known for a popular line of perfumes. His first fragrance, Classique, a women's floral-oriental, was introduced in 1993, followed by Le M?le for men two years later. Both were highly successful, and Le M?le is now the number-one men's fragrance in the European Union based on sales; it also holds a strong market position in Australia and the United States. His third fragrance, the women's fragrance Fragile, was introduced in 2000; however, it is now in limited distribution due to poor sales. In 2005, the unisex "fragrance for humanity" Gaultier? (pronounced Gaultier to the power of two) was launched (except in Canada, where it was launched in January 2006, and the United States, where it was launched in August 2006). A new men's fragrance, Fleur du Male, will be launched worldwide in April 2007. All Jean-Paul Gaultier perfumes are produced under a long-term license by Paris-based Beaute Prestige International, a division of the Japanese company Shiseido that also produces fragrances for Narciso Rodriguez and Issey Miyake.

Gaultier also co-presented the first six series of Eurotrash.

Gaultier also dabbled with music, releasing the house new-beat hit How To Do That in 1989.
在这个片断中 Miranda 和 Nigel 对于时尚和杂志本身的评论可谓是影片中精彩的两个片段之一。这两段评论在原书中是没有的。
Miranda: No, I just... It's just baffling to me. Why is it so impossible to put together a decent run-through? You people have had hours and hours to prepare. It's just so confusing to me. Where are the advertisers?

Woman: Oh, we have some pieces from Banana Republic.

Miranda: No, we need more, don't we? Oh. This is... This might be... What do you think of…

Nigel: Yeah. Well, you know me. Give me a full ballerina skirt and a hint of saloon and I'm on board.

Miranda: Hmm. But do you think it's too much like...

Nigel: Like the Lacroix from July? I thought that, but no, not with the right accessories. It should work.

Miranda: Where are the belts for this dre... Why is no one ready?

Woman: Here. It's a tough call. They're so different.
Miranda: Hmm. Something funny?

Andy: No. No, no, no. Nothing's... You know, it's just that both those belts look exactly the same to me. You know, I'm still learning about this stuff and, uh...

Miranda: This... stuff? Oh. Okay. I see. You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select... I don't know... that lumpy blue sweater, for instance because you're trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue. It's not turquoise. It's not lapis. It's actually cerulean. And you're also blithely unaware of the fact... that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent wasn't it... who showed cerulean military jackets? I think we need a jacket here.

Nigel: Mmm.

Miranda: And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it, uh, filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs... and it's sort of comical how you think you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact you're wearing a sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room... from a pile of stuff.
Andy: She hates me, Nigel.

Nigel: And that's my problem because... Oh, wait. No, it's not my problem.

Andy: I don't know what else I can do because if I do something right, it's unacknowledged. She doesn't even say thank you. But if I do something wrong, she is vicious.

Nigel: So quit.

Andy: What?

Nigel: Quit.

Andy: Quit?

Nigel: I can get another girl to take your job in five minutes... one who really wants it.

Andy: No, I don't want to quit. That's not fair. But, I, you know, I'm just saying that I would just like a little credit... for the fact that I'm killing myself trying.

Nigel: Andy, be serious. You are not trying. You are whining. What is it that you want me to say to you, huh? Do you want me to say, "Poor you. Miranda's picking on you. Poor you. Poor Andy"? Hmm? Wake up, six. She's just doing her job. Don't you know that you are working at the place that published some of the greatest artists of the century? Halston, Lagerfeld, de la Renta. And what they did, what they created was greater than art because you live your life in it. Well, not you, obviously, but some people. You think this is just a magazine, hmm? This is not just a magazine. This is a shining beacon of hope for... oh, I don't know... let's say a young boy growing up in Rhode Island with six brothers pretending to go to soccer practice when he was really going to sewing class and reading Runway under the covers at night with a flashlight. You have no idea how many legends have walked these halls. And what's worse, you don't care. Because this place, where so many people would die to work you only deign to work. And you want to know why she doesn't kiss you on the forehead and give you a gold star on your homework at the end of the day. Wake up, sweetheart.
安迪第一次接电话，她问对方：戈巴纳怎么拼？对方挂了电话。对方当然要挂电话，在一家时尚杂志里，居然不知道戈巴纳是谁？这怎么可以被容忍！没摔电话就是态度很好了！戈巴纳，就是著名时尚品牌D&G的G：Stefano Gabbana，意大利著名的时装设计师。Dolce&Gabbana这个品牌是以这两位设计师Domenico Dolce和Stefano Gabbana共同命名的。

第一次上班，米兰达就对安迪交代了一大堆话：我要10－15个卡尔文·克莱的裙子样品；还有提醒乔斯，我需要的那些配饰是马克装在小马上的；给迪玛西尼电话等等。
这段话提及很多名人：美国的CK（CALVIN KLEIN）是大家比较熟悉的牌子；她提到的马克，就是马克·雅各布斯，著名的美国设计师，路易威登的设计总监；而最后米兰达强调的迪玛西尼： PATRICK DEMARCHELIER，世界顶级的法国时尚摄影大师。注意，米兰达叫他的姓：迪玛西尼，而艾米丽叫他的名，后来一次关于他的电话，这次安迪知道了他是谁，也叫他的名：派克崔。对于这样的一个世界级的大师，多少设计学院展示他的作品作为教材，竟然不当回事的直呼其名，可见这些小女生们怎么的目中无人了；而米兰达这个时尚媒体暴君更是把这一大堆的世界级名人当手下一样呼来唤去。

安迪去CK的路上，艾米丽打电话给她：米兰达需要你去香丽大厦（就是爱马仕Heimes），米兰达和莫扎尔（Meisel）见面，她回来时要喝热咖啡。

这里的梅塞尔，史蒂文·梅塞尔（Steven Meisel）是美国著名的时装摄影师。他同时为意大利版的《VOGUE》和美国版的《VOGUE》拍时装故事。意大利版的《VOGUE》是公认的最有艺术水准的杂志，能为它拍摄照片，是件很荣耀的事。他和迪玛西尼有出现在影片后面的瓦伦蒂诺的发布会。

吃饭的时候，纳秋对安迪暗示减肥的问题时候，安迪问：她们不吃饭吗？纳秋说：自从2变4，0变2后。安迪说：我穿6号的。纳秋表情诙谐的说：那就要变成14了。

这句话是什么意思？他的意思就是；自从时尚开始向瘦里流行，人们对自己的要求就是再瘦一点再瘦一点。服装的2号和4号是小号和加小号，但是人们总是觉得自己太胖，2号看起来是4号，就算是穿到了２号，还是恨不得自己是穿0号的（0号是不存在的）。所以当安迪说自己是穿6号（中码）的时候，纳秋很夸张的告诉她，在这个圈子里，6号看起来和穿14号的肥婆没什么两样。

安迪开始的时候不觉得她穿6号有什么问题，一般人你都不会觉得穿中码的衣服有什么问题，但是对于时尚界，她太肥了。所以米兰达第一次看到安迪就问艾米丽：那个减肥没成功的是谁？而在她和纳秋去杂志社的仓库时候，纳秋高诉她：这里的服装号码只有2号和4号，也暗示了安迪的身材在时尚的门外。而后面还有纳秋在安迪向他抱怨的时候说：醒醒，6号。实际上也是有奚落的意思，意思是她还没有认识到她从事的是什么行业（就象她不是穿4#或是2#的人。这个行业的都是穿4#和2#的）。

在米兰达的招待会的时候，安迪穿了一件漂亮的连衣裙走到门口，艾米丽有点嫉妒的说安迪看起来很漂亮，结果安迪只是随口说：你看起来很瘦。注意看，艾米丽的情绪一下子就变了，从一脸病样变得神采飞扬起来，兴奋激动着对安迪说她是怎么减肥……可见，瘦对时尚人士是怎么的敏感。而快最后，安迪在纳秋告诉她米兰达给他一个新机会的消息时候，对纳秋说：我穿4号的了。表示她终于从行为上彻底的融进入了这个圈子。

在试装会上，当安迪的同事拿出那两个腰带说：他们非常不同。安迪笑了，她觉得两个腰带没什么不同。这是典型的外行。这两条腰带虽然颜色一样，但是它们的腰带头是不一样的，它们有着不同的搭配感观，搭配同一件衣服会有不同的效果，而区分这些差异，找出最好的搭配，这就是时尚的细节的微妙之处。安迪不懂时尚搭配是一件很精细的事，设计师们津津计较的那些细节，虽然在普通人眼里，根本看不出有什么差异，但是在设计师的眼里却是截然不同的，这点就是专业眼光和非专眼光业的差别；所以米兰达看得出来有些恼怒，觉得她的无知玷污了这里的专业氛围。接下来她说的话就很狠，很赤裸裸的羞辱了安迪对时尚的无知：

比如你挑了那件蓝色的条纹毛衣，你以为你自己是按你的意思认真的选出这件衣服。但是，首先你不明白那件衣服不是蓝色的也不是青绿色或琉璃色，实际上它是天蓝色的，而你从没搞清这个事实；而实际上你也不知道，从２００２年Oscar de la Rent 的发布会第一次出现了天蓝色礼服,然后我记得，伊夫·圣·朗洛也随之展示了天蓝色的军服系列，很快的，天蓝色就出现在随后的8个设计师的发布会里，然后，它就风行于全世界各大高级卖场，最后大面积的流行到街头，甚至在那些肮脏的拾荒者的身上也可以看到。事实上，这种天蓝色，产生了上百万美元的利润和数不尽的工作机会，还有为之付出的难以计算的心血……你觉得你穿的这件衣服是你自己选择的，以为你的选择是在时尚产业之外，但实际上不是这样的，你穿的衣服实际上就是这间屋子里的人，替你选的，就是从这一堆玩意儿里。...